on to Budapest

Farewell to Vienna (and to my backpack and its contents).

We took the ever-present tram to the train station. No problem finding our train and our seats – second class seats were just fine. The train was not full, so we could move from our dirty windows to clean ones. The countryside was very pretty – lots more open space than I expected – interspersed with small villages with old houses and new, ugly apartment buildings and hundreds of wind turbines. Our only excitement was helping the young Italian couple beside us hunt for their lost tickets – which they had shown to the Austrian conductor, but had lost by the time the Hungarian conductor asked for them. Eventually found them wedged under a seat, and all was well.

Two subway rides to get us near our hotel – our Hungarian reading comprehension was sufficient to only send us down one wrong turn. Good thing, too, as there seemed to be metro staff at every turnstile, ensuring that everyone had a ticket and that they were properly franked. Our hotel was not exactly where we thought it should be, but by fanning out, we were able to locate it. We have side-by-side rooms, with a connecting door. Owen and I have a large room with a “kitchenette” – dishes for 4, bar fridge, stove top and sink, and a pretty barebones sitting room. John and Linda have a smaller room with a kitchen table and 4 chairs, so together, we are quite comfy. Nothing fancy about this place, and there are several floors below us in various stages of renovation – we’re not quite sure if our rooms have been renovated, or if they are yet to be done!! Our bathroom is all white tile and dark parquet floor and big shower, and our living room/kitchen looks like you parents’ basement rumpus room (or your first college apartment)!

We went for a bit of a walkabout after we unpacked. Lunch in a nearby pub – English menu provided – with translations like “pleated potatoes” “gizzard goulash” and “dumps with poppy”. Settled for non-gizard goulash with noodles, which was rib-sticking good.

Found the Franz Liszt Music Academy a few blocks from out hotel, and thought – while we’re in the neighbourhood – let’s have a look inside. Discovered that a concert had started about half an hour before, and for 900 Florints (about $6 each) we could go in, once the current tune had finished. It was not a big concert hall so we had good seats. Seemed to have a lot of families attending (Saturday afternoon). The first number we heard was Mozart – then – intermission. OK, we can stay for the second half – looks like Chopin, Satie, and Bach on the program. Much to our surprise, during intermission the crew removed all the orchestra’s chairs and music stands, and set up a bunch of antique music boxes and a player piano on the stage. The second half of the program was a long (and probably very interesting, if you understood Hungarian) explanation of the five or six different boxes, and then we were done!

The cool weather seems to have followed us from Vienna – it had rained while we were in the concert, and continued to sprinkle while we walked a few blocks in every direction from our hotel. Picked up some olive bread, edam cheese, ham and beer for supper, and supplies for breakfast – this hotel charges 14€ (about 20 bucks!! each) for breakfast. Watching European soccer on tv for a bit, then off to bed.